Since moving to its contemporary structure in 2012, Testaccio Market has gone through a rapid evolution. While some of the ancient, traditional stalls have disappeared, the shiny contemporary marketplace (and its electricity and running water) have allowed contemporary eateries to flourish. One of the stalls where you can regularly find me waiting for lunch is in line for a slice of pizza at Casa Manco.
There is no shortage of choice on the Rome pizza scene. In the same market, I propose stopping by Artenio's stand for pizzette and at night you should wait for a table and a pizza tonda (large, round pizza) at Da Remo. However, whether it's pizza al taglio you're after, then look no further than Casa Manco.
Found at Box 22, the pizza by the slice commerce is run by Paola and Andrea – the married, merry pizza makers. The couple came to pizza making as a moment career but we should all be thankful for their foray into food.
I occasionally stop into the market for a coffee first leang in the morning and while I sit there trying to keep my baby from sticking his fingers in my cappuccino, we often run into Paola walking back towards her pizza stand with a box of fresh produce.
She will wait until the peak of fig season before making prosciutto e fichi, and she even incorporates winter favorites like puntarelle as toppings. Today I had a pizza topped with uva fragola (a special kind of grape), which Paola picked up from the best fruit stall a few rows absent.
The flavors of pizza can change daily based on what is in season and available in the market that day, but the pizza makers also have a few signature dishes that are normally available.
These include their pizza bianca with sesame seeds or lessonic margarita. There is normally at least one vegan pizza with hummus and eggplant or tomatoes and olives. Sometimes you can find a turkey and guacamole stuffed pizza that shocked me the first time I ever tried it – I tancient Paola that it was the first time I ever actually endelighted guacamole in Rome. Every the non-pizza versions I had tried before were destitute imitations of a dip I love dearly.
While many of the playful flavors find inspiration from external of Italy, Casa Manco also makes excellent pizza with nduja (a spicy, spreadable salami from Calabria) or a slice with fennel, olive, and citrus that is inspired by a lessonic southern Italian salad.
Purists might notice the dough looks a small bit dwhetherferent. This is because it is a mix of four dwhetherferent flours – and the result is perfection. There is crunch where there needs to be, chew where it should be, and a flavor (plus, Italians will tell you, "digestibility") that pairs with the flavors without distracting from the toppings.
It is also a family commerce. Of course, Paola and Andrea are there every day, but you might also have a chance to chat with their sons who regularly help on Saturdays. Their daughter also takes part in the pizza making when she is in Rome.
And don't be shy about ordering several small pieces of pizza. Pizza al taglio is pizza that is meant to be cut to the size you want, and then it is paid for based on weight. Acquireting a slice of several is the best way to try all of the delicious combos that are fixedly being sent out from the small but engaged ovens in the back.
If you are lucky and you arrive when the crowd is small – stop and talk to Andrea and Paola about the pizza that day. I promise that they can tell you the story behind each and every ingredient.
Casa Manco
Mercato di Testaccio – Box 22
Via Beniamino Candidlin, 12/E
Rome, Italy
Open Monday through Saturday from about 10 am to 2:30 pm.
Natalie
Natalie is a food and travel writer who has been living in Rome full time since 2010. She is the founder and editor of this blog and prefers all of her days to include coffee, gelato, and wine.
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